1977 Johnson 85 Hp Manual
I have a v4 johnson motor that I believe is a 1977 that the idle is so low that I have to keep the warm up lever pulled up to keep it running. It runs great otherwise. I also was checking everything out and decided to compression test it and one side of the block 2 cylinders was 110 even but the other side if the block was 75 and 90. When I had the compression guage hooked up to the 75 cylinder the engine sounded like it turned harder when cranked. Obviously I have some engine issue but when I used my scope on the cylinders they looked to not be scored??? Any suggestions? I don't know much about 2 cycles and was wondering if there could be like a leave valve or something bad?
1977 Johnson 85 HP 85ETLR77. Johnson outboard motor was made for the saltwater environment. Engine Manual: Johnson Outboard Manual.
A friend told me that maybe that could be it. The funny thing it runs great at anything but an idle and doesn't miss a beat.
There is almost certainly an idle speed adjustment screw on that engine, so you could find and adjust that. It's possible the engine needs some expensive repairs, but before you take that step.
Have you ever had this engine de-carboned? If not, try this Seafoam shock treatment: Put the boat in the water or attach garden hose via flushing muffler. Put in one gallon of gasoline, and 1 full pint can of Seafoam in an empty fuel tank. Start engine. Let engine run for 10 minutes or so at idle, or just above. You are likely to see intense white smoke. Shut off engine.
Wait 20-30 minutes. Repeat until tank is almost gone. Hook up regular fuel line and take boat to your favorite place to run. Run the motor hard for about 10-20 minutes. This procedure will clean up the fuel system and remove carbon from the cylinders. If you still have low idle and low compression after this treatment, then think about having a mechanic look at the motor. I have run this procedure on many of my small engines.
It has never done any harm and in most cases the engines start and run much better afterwards.since you couldn't see scoring from your scope check. Yarcraft's method is a good way to clean her out. An alternate is to pick up a spray can or two of Merc or Bombardier de-carb spray and follow the directions on the can exactly. The clean out may also get your idle speed up. If not, when you're idling with the arm up, try hitting the choke- just a quick hit- and see if the idle speed comes up. If not, then you probably just need to carefully readjust the carbs idle mixture and linkage.
If hitting the choke increases the idle speed, then you need to clean the carbs, or at least richen the idle mixture screws about a quarter turn. The linkage adjustment on an old OMC is fairly easy- but has to be done exactly right, especially the carb throttle plate pick-up and the sync between carbs. The manual may discuss using a 'motion amplifier' so you can see the pick-up points accuately.
For this my time honored tools are 2 small alligator clips from Radio Shack with a 6 inch length of small diameter wood dowel jammed into the hole in the clip where a wire would normally go. These clip onto to the throttle shaft linkage so you can watch when the carb starts to open. Congrats.you are now the proud owner of an OMC 'Fat Four', this being the early nickname for your motor, which started out as a 50 hp back in the late 1950s. These were very reliable engines, but were not noted for fuel economy. I spent many a happy day fishing and skiing with my Dad's 1959 Johnson 'Fat Four' 50.
I suspect the nickname came from the Merc guys- who had the inline 6 cyl Mk75/78 non-shifting 'Dock Buster' motors. The Merc Dock-Busters reversed the engine rotation when you tried to hit reverse- the engine had to stop and then be restarted in reverse rotation all in the short time you pulled the handle back to reverse.just before you hit the dock.
1972 Johnson 85 Hp Manual
These early Mercs made the OMC Fat Fours famous.
I'm a newbie here along with my newly purchased old boat. A 1976 Glastron T186 with a Johnson 115hp V4. It currently has manual tilt/trim. What does it take to convert it to electric tilt/trim?
I've been looking on eBay and see numerous tilt/trim units for Johnson outboards for sale and in the majority it says that they should work on mid-to-late '70's to 90's 85hp-115hp Johnson Outboards. How do I tell for sure that it will work? Is this something a DIY can install or am I better off finding a boat mechanic/dealer to do this for me? Or am I asking for a can of trouble and should just stick to the manual tilt/trim?
1977 Johnson 85 Hp
Thanks to all who respond. Re: Convert Manual Tilt/Trim to Electric? 1977 Johnson 115hp The after market units are the easiest way to go,but your bracket may have the holes to accept parts from a carcus donor trim assy.The bolts almost always are frozen and do come loose with patience and some heat from a torch and some good penetrating fluid.The hyd.cyl is really hard to beat out of the old unit,let alone install back into yours.It is almost easier to drop a lower unit and swap a powerhead onto a complete trim bracket assy.but the #s wont match your block. Your lower unit driveshaft spline HAS to have the right # of splines and also watch out for a different style of exhaust routing. I saw a CMC pt130 on craiglist Seattle for $350.00 a few days ago.
TR is probably stuck with the CMC model or the funky side mt. Power TILT unit( I forget the maker)but not really meant for trimming while underway. Re: Convert Manual Tilt/Trim to Electric? 1977 Johnson 115hp SpikerMan.
Im my opinion, your best bet is to go with the CMC Tilt and Trim unit. I had an 1977 85hp Johnson without tilt and trim, on my cutty cabin,. I bought a 1985 85hp. Parts motor, w/tilt and trim, to add to my '77 and found it was not compatable.
I didn't know about the CMC system or i-boat's at that time. I ended up buying a neglected 1987 100hp commerical, with t&t for $500. I put a couple of hundred in it and it was worth every dime I put in it. A little while back, I bought a 1985 Grumman aluminum center console, with a 1989 Jonnyrude 75hp. Stinger, without tilt and trim, from an estate.
The engine has less than 40 original hours and had been in storage for many, many years but had been properly prepared for storage. This boat is a keeper, so I thought about adding a factory t&t, but again the cost of the parts and my labor to make the change over forces me to go with the CMC tilt and trim unit.
The CMC unit will also add stability to your boat, as it has a 5 or 6' set back. Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with any manufactuer or sales for CMC, or any other concern. I just think the t&t unit is a great product for an aftermarket application. Yes, i-boats carries these, at less than the factory retail price.Bob in Calif. 'The state of confusion'. Re: Convert Manual Tilt/Trim to Electric? 1977 Johnson 115hp TR918.
Sorry for the delay in getting to your post. The first time I saw a CMC unit in action,was a couple years ago at the launch ramp, in a city next to mine. I was aware if the unit, but never saw one in action, until that day. After talking to the boat owner about the features and seeing it in action, I thought to get one for my cutty cabin, with the non t&t 85hp motor.
When I acquired my center console boat, that's when I decided to buy the CMC unit for the 75hp Stinger. One nice thing I didn't mention, is the more number of degrees of movement you get with the after market t&t. I am planning on buying the t&t in January, as I have been spending a ton of money on a second home I have, getting it ready to sell in erly '06, The most expensive work is now done while having some major set back's from two vendors and a couple of contractor's. That has prolonged the remodel completion and cost me a whole non-boating summer.
I am doing 75% of the work myself, so the set backs ruined any boating upgrading and use time, this year.Bob in Calif.